Project Name

Materials List

Rocker Guards for a YJ 10' of 3"x3" 1/8" square tube steel
10' of 2"x2" 1/4" or 1/8" square tube steel
4'x6'x1/4" steel plate
Grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers.
Credits
Ian Gaffner

 

Begin by measuring the distance along the bottom rocker panel. Determine how far you want the guards to extend. Make sure not to extend the bar where it might contact the wheels.
After measuring the distance take the large tube steel and mark off the location of the first cut. The ends of the bars should be cut at about a 45 degree angle. Mark the angle and prepare to make the first cut. Before starting the cut ensure that the steel is secured so that it cannot move during the first cut.
After making the first cut measure from the top of the bar, the long side, to determine the location for the next cut. Again mark and secure the steel before starting the second cut.
Once the second cut is made flip the steel over and measure again from the top side of the bar to get the distance for the third cut. Mark, secure and cut for the third time.
When you are finished you should have 2 nice evenly matched bars. Using a hand grinder remove all the rough edges from the cuts and put a slight inward bevel on the cut locations. This will make for a better match up between the bar and the end caps.
Next measure the frame rails and determine your mounting locations for the support bars. These mount perpendicular to the rocker guards and mate at an angle to the frame itself. Make sure the selected mounting points do not interfere with the skid plates, fuel lines or brake lines. Once you have determined your mounting location measure the area leaving room for 2"x2" bar in the center and ample room for the mounting bolts. (If you are planning on welding the bars to the frame you can make the plates smaller) If you are bolting the bars to the frame now is the time to mark and drill the holes for the bolts. You will need to drill the holes for the frame and the mounts separately.
Transfer your measurements to the sheet steel and prepare to make the cuts for the mounting plates. If you elected to use 1/4" steel go slowly as the thicker metal takes much longer to cut. Cut all of the mounting plates at this time. You will need a total of 4 mounting plates.
Measure the area for the endcaps on the rock bars themselves. Transfer those measurements to the sheet steel and cut out a total of 4 end caps. Grind a matching bevel on the end caps so that they match the ends of the bars. The better the fit at this point the easier the welding will be.
Once the end caps are prepared setup the welder and weld the first cap in place. Ensure that you get good weld penetration. The finished product should be completely sealed.

When the endcaps are welded on, grind down the welds and blend in the caps with the bars. The finished product should look like a solid bar. If you find any holes or gaps during the grinding process go back and weld them shut.
Now take the finished bar and put it on a set of jack stands. Locate the bar in the position that you want it. Take measurements from the bar to the frame mounting points. The front support of the bar will tie into an existing body mount, so just measure from the bar to about 2" under the body mount. Mark the mounting bar attachment points on the frame and on the rocker guard itself. There should be a total of 3 mounting locations for each side. Two on the frame itself and one on a body mount.
Using the measurements cut sections of the 2"x2" square tubing to match. Using the locations marked in the previous step weld the 2"x2" tubing to the rocker guard.
Once you have welded the the tubes together weld the mounting plates to the ends of the 2"x2" square tubing. The front support needs to have the end location cut to match the body mount. Test fit the bar to the frame and mark the front support so that it fits flush with the bottom of the body mount bracket. There should be an existing hole in the body mount that can be used to secure the bar. Usually about 1" of the bar has to be removed by making an L shaped cut that starts from the end of the bar and goes in about 2" and then goes up 1". After the cut has been made the hole can be marked and drilled.
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Now the bars are completely assembled. The are ready to be painted and bolted (or welded) to the frame. Ensure that when you bolt the bars to the frame that you do not over tighten the frame bolts and crush the frame.